The Wacky Rig was developed a few years ago in Japan. Since then it has apparently been boiling under the surface as the new secret of the Pro's. The problem with professional tournament angling is if your matches are televised your technique is bound to get out. However, unlike most new techniques billed as the hot new thing in fishing--this rig works. Let me reemphasize, it really works well and will help catch a lot of bass. I promise. 

To fish it simply cast along side a fallen timber pile, under low brush, in holes in a weed bed. Let the worm fall straight down to the bottom, let it sit for a few seconds then jerk the worm up and let it fall again. Strikes will almost always come on the fall. If this fails try slightly moving your rod tip up and down as the worm falls to impart more action. If fish are there you will get a bite. 

A sensitive rod is crucial for this approach in order to feel the fish take the worm. Most often they will tap the worm a few times like a Walleye and then you will see your line start to move. When this happens reel in your slack and set the hook. If you attempt to set the hook too early or before you have felt the fish fully on with your rod you will lose your worm as the bass is most likely just mouthing it.

I have heard it said on several occasions that more Bass Masters Tournaments have been won using the Texas Rig than any other lure. Don't get me wrong, Spinnerbaits produce great in the morning as bass are warming up. Top water is highly effective on calm nights and fun as hell. You can run and gun the edge of cover with crankbaits, especially during the spawn. But what do you pull out of your tackle box when they are just not biting on a hot summer day? With the increase in temps during mid-day the fish become lazy and some finesse is required. Its time to call in the Texas Rig.

Rigging the Texas Rig is simple. You need a curly tail worm, offset worm hook, and possibly a bullet weight. To rig it traditionally first place the bullet weight on your line pointed up. Next tie on your offset worm hook. Finally thread the hook into the top of the worm down the first 1/2 inch or so and then exit through the side. Now thread the hook back through the worm where the bottom of the hook meets it and push it through--but not all the way. The hook should be just under the other side of the worm but not penetrating. This makes it virtually weedless until a Bass bites setting the hook. For a even slower presentation do it exactly the same but forget the bullet weight. This is a more subtle approach for even greater finesse or great if your fishing really thick cover and your bullet weight starts catching weeds. 

This is what it should look like. I prefer darker colors in clear water and brighter, larger worms in murky waters or at night. 

Finally, since this is the first rig I have mentioned that uses plastics let me add that often you need to wait a second or two once you feel the fish start to take the worm. A sensitive rod is crucial to differentiate a fish from a log jam or weeds and to know when the fish has truly taken the bait. If you try and set the hook too early, often you will lose the fish as it may only have hold of the tail of the worm. This takes some getting used to but with patience you will come to love this rig.

*Note picture is a 3 lb Largemouth I actually caught tonight on a Texas Rig. 

I have decided to do a short series on a few basic rigs every angler should know how to use and in what situations to use them in. Things are warming up outside which means prime Catfish season so I will start with one of the most basic rigs of them all, the slip rig. 

To set up this rig you will need a circle hook, bead, barrel swivel, and either an egg sinker or a no roll sinker. First cut a section of your main line to the desired length of your leader. Now thread through your sinker onto your main line followed by a bead, if you are using a no roll sinker have the pointed end face your reel. Next tie the barrel swivel to your main line, I use the palomar knot here. To the other end of your swivel tie your leader on, I use the improved clinch knot. At the end of your leader tie on your circle hook. Your done. 

This rig allows the catfish to take your bait with very little resistance. I like circle hooks in this rig for two reasons. First they almost always hook the fish in the corner of the mouth making it easier to remove and less stress to the fish for catch and release. Secondly the fish sets the hook itself when the fish turns after swallowing your bait, taking the pressure off you to know when the right time is to "set the hook" and reducing lost fish. Length of leader is determined by the current and cover. The longer the leader the more play it will have, especially important if you are fishing live bait. However, it also increases the chances of your hook tangling on cover or wedged in rocks. If you are fishing a with very high flow such as a spillway don't use a leader or barrel swivel. Allow bead and sinker to come right up to the hook. The purpose of the bead is to provide a buffer between the knot and the sliding sinker. Often times we use large sinkers in excess of 3 ounces and the force of the weight slamming into the knot can weaken it or knock your leader straight off.

If you are fishing dough baits you may substitute a circle hook for a treble hook, dip bait hook, or sponge. When fishing this I enable the clicker on my baitcaster to both give me an audible warning on when the fish is on and to also let the fish take out some line with very little resistance. You can also modify this rig by using lighter weights or a roach walker weight for Walleye and Trout fishing. 

Top slip rig set up for catfish, bottom for Walleye or Trout.